And the new and old manuals do not mention ReliaG or the model numbers listed in the instructions. And the models that are mentioned in the instructions do not have old and new manuals! It would be great to know how this documentation that seemingly has nothing in common fits together.
There is no mention of this unit on the Genie website. The unit is no longer sold. Click on the pdf icon to view the manual that had been on the Genie website. Genie Overview Genie Overview Genie goes back a long ways.
Model StealthDrive Plus This is a current model which can be found at the Genie website: http: http: or click the local screen capture for historical sake. Model StealthDrive This is a current model which can be found at the Genie website: http: http: or click the local screen capture for historical sake. Model Model PowerMax This is a current model which can be found at the Genie website: http: http: or click the local screen capture for historical sake.
Model Excelerator-II This is a current model which can be found at the Genie website: http: http: or click the local screen capture for historical sake. Model SilentMax This is a current model which can be found at the Genie website: http: http: or click the local screen capture for historical sake.
Model L Directlift Plus The unit is no longer sold. The first manual is older than the second manual. Model C Directlift Plus The unit is no longer sold. Model KV ChainDrive This is a current model which can be found at the Genie website: http: http: or click the local screen capture for historical sake. Model ChainMax This is a current model which can be found at the Genie website: http: http: or click the local screen capture for historical sake.
Model PowerLift This is a current model which can be found at the Genie website: http: http: or click the local screen capture for historical sake. Model L Directlift The unit is no longer sold. Model StealthLift This is a current model which can be found at the Genie website: http: http: or click the local screen capture for historical sake.
The problem is either due to a blocked path between the sensors, dirty eyes, loose wires at the sensors or at the motor head, or just bad sensors. The transmitters remotes will not work to close the garage door. You will find that the door will only move an inch or so in the close direction and reverse. When this happens your garage door will only close by holding down on the wall button, or wall console, until the door fully closes. This method is the only way to override the safety and close the door.
To try and correct the problem, make sure the eyes on the sensors are clean, the wire connections are securely fastened at the sensors and motor head, and the eyes are directed at each other. Also, try unplugging the garage door opener and re-plugging the unit back into the outlet. This acts as a reset and may reset the sensors.
If nothing works, it may be that you have to replace the sensors. You can find new sensors on our Web site in the category section or by going directly to Infra-Red Sensors. The garage door closes down to the floor, hesitates and reverses back up to the open position. What is wrong? You have an open limit and a close limit on your garage door opener. These limits set the distance the door will open or close before stopping.
In the down direction, if the limit is set beyond the point at which the door closes fully, the door will hit the floor and act as if it is hitting something and the safety feature tells it to reverse. If you have a screw drive or chain glide unit you need to set the limit closer to the motor, so the opener shuts off earlier at the point the door closes. If you have a chain drive with limit lugs attached to the chain, one for the up limit and one for the down limit, you need to experiment with the placement of the down limit lug on the chain, so the opener will shut off at the point the door closes.
You can find garage door limits on our Web site in the Genie section, or you can go directly to Genie limit switch. The code changes every single time you press the button. It is a rolling code transmitter and there are 4.
The learn, or smart button is behind the light lens or on the back of the motor head and is close to the floppy antenna wire. Some models require you to unscrew 2 bolts on the light lens to be able to remove the lens and access the learn button. On the newer model Genie Openers there are a set of buttons located at the bottom, outside cover of the motor head:1 square and 2 triangle buttons shown in question 9. The smart button for Chamberlain openers is usually on the terminal board.
To reprogram each transmitter, push the learn button momentarily and the red or amber light will start blinking. It will blink for up to 30 seconds. In that time press one of your transmitters 3 or 4 times until the garage door starts moving.
After momentarily pressing this button, press the remote and hold for 5 seconds. Keep the transmitter at least 3 feet away from the antenna. Perform the same process with each transmitter. The newer Genie openers with the access buttons on the outside bottom cover, press and hold the square button until a blue light comes on next to the button and release.
It will change to purple and start blinking. Stand back 4 feet and press the remote slowly 3 or 4 times. If needing to erase all remotes, in-car controls and keypad, hold the square button until the LED turns blue and let go. When it switches to purple and blinks press and hold the 2 triangular button down at the same time until the lights turn blue and let go.
This should clear all remote systems to this opener. Stanley and Linear have similar, rolling code transmitters. To access our transmitters go to Transmitters and Receivers and click onto the appropriate manufacturer. My garage door is opening and closing by itself, as if someone else has the same frequency. In most cases, when a garage door opens or closes by itself, or when you find your door open, upon returning home, the problem is due to a short somewhere.
This short is most likely to be in one of two places: either in one of your transmitters or in the wall button or its wiring. When there is a short in your garage door transmitter, you will often find the garage door is up upon returning home, even though you know you closed the door when you left the house. A short in your transmitter causes a continues signal to be sent. As you are pulling out of the driveway the garage door closes fully and appears to stop, but as the carriage and arm run past the down limit and hits the header bracket it reverses, and the door begins to open, just as you start driving off down the road.
You come home to find the garage door is up, as if someone else had opened your door. The best thing to do to troubleshoot the garage door problem is remove the batteries from your transmitters and try operating the door from the wall button.
If the problem is intermittent, you may want to do this for a day or two to eliminate the transmitters as the culprit. If the problem persists, try removing the wall button wire at the motor head to ensure it is not a short in the wire to the button, then try operating the garage door with the transmitters only. If it stops the problem, replace the wires and test the wall button.
It is a process of elimination. Pull down on the red cord and knob of the traveler carriage to release the door from the Genie locking system. Operation of the door can now be performed by manually lifting and closing the door. Pull emergency release cord and knob toward the motor. Try to keep the cord as parallel to the rail of the garage door opener as possible. You may need to give the cord a slight yank to reconnect.
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