The rule of thumb is if the engine is coming alive at RPM then you want a converter with about stall to it. Many people will tend to over cam and carburet their cars, and those people under stall which sucks. To choose the right torque converter for your vehicle the stock parts and any alterations and additions should be considered.
This will help pair up the power, transmission, and all variables with the right torque converter that has the proper stall speed for your set up. We specialize in building custom highly specialized torque converters for all applications. We manufacture them for race, towing, and even higher MPG applications. Call us today to find out which torque converter will help you tap into the highest performance, most solid towing, or best gas efficiency possible.
You can reach us at or contact us online. Buying High Stall Torque Converters To choose the right torque converter for your vehicle the stock parts and any alterations and additions should be considered. Shift your transmission into drive. A torque converter TC can fail in several different situations: Since TCs are made of metal, they are welded together.
These welds can fail split or break due to excess pressure or by a poor welding job. This is most easily noticed leaking transmission fluid. Flush the Torque Converter Start the vehicle. Place a funnel at the mouth of the transmission dipstick tube. Move the transmission through each of the gears when about three quarters of the total fluid capacity of the transmission has been drained and replaced. Some of the most common signs of a bad transmission control module include: You have difficulty downshifting when you're slowing down, coming to a stop, or manually trying to downshift.
Your transmission shifts to neutral or to another gear on its own. There's a delay when you try to shift from one gear to another. Transmissions when replaced will always come with a replacement torque converter along with them. You can never really flush a torque converter in the shop well enough to prevent contamination from an old converter from getting into a rebulit or new transmission.
So, they come with one. For newer cars, you should also have the transmission flushed every 40,, miles or every 2 years, to remove all of the sediment and debris from the torque converter and cooler lines. Vehicles with manual transmissions should have the clutch fluid and gearbox oil changed every 30,, miles. There are several transmission torque converter problems that can occur which causes the converter to fail.
The transmission torque converter seal can be damaged as the converter overheats. Fluid will leak out and the converter will stop working. What Repairs Will Fix P? Replace the torque converter clutch solenoid. Replace the torque converter or clutch. Change transmission fluid and filter. Install a rebuilt or remanufactured transmission.
You will not be gaining any horsepower , rather you will be recovering horsepower that would have been normally lost with your stock TC. In addition, a stronger TC will have a higher stall speed. This will allow better launches when you are brake torquing or flashing the TC. The torque converter does not need to be primed to fill it. There is no pump inside the torque converter. Some common reasons for motor vehicle stalls include:. If your torque converter fails, the engine can stall out.
Torque converters can fail for many reasons, including dirty fluid, overheating and problems with stall speed, which is the RPM at which your torque converter shifts power from the engine to the automatic transmission.
In order to check your torque converter, you might have to perform a stall-speed test. Place immobilizers behind your wheels to prevent your car from moving. Crank that parking brake. Then crank that Soulja Boy. Press the foot brake all the way to the floor and start your engine. Vroom, vroom. Change gears from park to drive, but instead of hitting the gas pedal, do not take your foot off the brake.
We repeat: do not take your foot off the brake! Keep pressing the brake pedal, but use your other foot to engage the accelerator pedal for a maximum of five seconds. Check your tachometer for the stall speed and see if it reads lower than it should be. When you're done, be sure to remove your foot from the accelerator pedal first, then the brake pedal. Then you're safe to crank the parking brake back down.
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